Day 20: Zaragoza

Date	Jun 11th ( Sunday )
Total This Camino:	195 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	195 miles
Total All Caminos:	1918 miles
Lodging:	$ 45 @ apartment in Zaragoza
Total Lodging:	$ 905
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 22 Zaragoza train station and back to apartment
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 269 = 284
Food:	$ 40
Total Food:	$ 395

Meaningful Moment

One more day in Zaragoza.

What can I say! Got up and headed out to the churraría for my morning churros and Cafe con leche.

Came back and packed bags. Deb and I walked for about 10 minutes down to where we were supposed to meet the taxi, who was on time .

Deb and I entered the train station and had a bite for breakfast. Headed down to the security checkpoint and cleared it.

Queued up for the check-in line and the attendant says our tickets are for tomorrow !

I turned to Deb and say "what date is today?" She says the 11th and the attendant says the ticket is for the 12th. Wtf 

Deb though saved the day. She quickly analyzed the situation, and knowing that the weather in Galicia tomorrow would be terrible, she suggested we stay in Zaragoza another day.

After some quick phone calls to rearrange our lodging for the next three or four nights, things began to look up. We lost one non-cancelable reservation, but everything else fell into line.

I know what happened. European calendars begin the week on Monday. American calendars begin the week on Sunday. When I booked the tickets, the very first entry on the left side must have been a Monday, which I assumed was a Sunday, which through the date off by 1.

I have run into this before, and even cautioned Deb once during this Camino, but clearly I got burned again.

On the positive side, we've checked out the process for getting a taxi from our apartment to the train station lol.

Our hostess at the apartment quickly agreed to allow us to stay one more night. And so Deb and I returned to the apartment. 

After a little bit of a chill out, we headed to the Francisco Goya museum for a quiet afternoon tour of paintings and then walked around town a little bit. 

With an incoming thunderstorm, we headed back to the apartment where we chilled out until it was time to go out for something to eat for dinner and one more walk around the town.

The afternoon rain storms finally hit Zaragoza so Deb and I hunkered down in the apartment. When we did finally go out, it was still raining but not too hard. 

We walked around and finally found a place where we could get some tapas.

We then walk some more and found some pastries. :-)

For me, it was a nice evening walk even though it was a little bit wet

Random Thought of the Day

How simple things can change plans

Notable memories

Museum of Francisco Goya

	Museum of Francesco de Goya
	Plaza de España
	Plaza de Santa Cruz

Day 19: Zaragosa

Date	Jun 10th ( Saturday )
Total This Camino:	195 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	195 miles
Total All Caminos:	1918 miles
Lodging:	$ 45 @ apartment in Zaragosa
Total Lodging:	$ 858
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 247 = 262
Food:	$ 30
Total Food:	$ 385

Meaningful Moment

First rest day since we started walking. I believe it's 15 days.

Random Thought of the Day

I can see that we should have planned on spending 2 days here, rather than one. But that's okay, we'll have a free day on the end. But Zaragoza does look very interesting.

The street fashion is incredible. People are dressed really nice, not high society, but with an element of style. 

On the Road / Notable memories

8:00 a.m. At the La Fama churerría for breakfast. 

Churros con chocolate and Cafe Con leche with sugar.

I foresee a massive sugar crash in my life in about 3 hours

	Staying in a two-bedroom apartment with kitchen and living room. Sweet.
	The Zaragoza public market was designed to look like a train station.  Mix of Zaragosa alabaster and modern style.
	1800-year-old Roman wall built to defend against the Visigoths.
	St Elizabeth of Portugal Church, named for the miracle worker who turned roses into bread for the poor people.
	Plaza de San Felipe
	Calle Alfonso, looking towards the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Pilar. Our apartment was just off of this street, putting us very centrally located to the most interesting things here.
	Iglesia de San Gil Abad. Church of Baptism of Francisco Goya. Mix of baroque and mudejar style.
	Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Pilar. One of Zaragoza's two cathedrals. The cathedrals take turns being the principal cathedral of Zaragoza.
	Lunch of mussels and croquettes along the  "tube" street, so named because the buildings are so close to each other on both sides of the street, that you're feel enclosed.
	Trenza de Virgen It is a dessert that the people of Zaragoza traditionally make on the feast day of the Virgen del Pilar, on October 12: La Trenza de la Virgen or Trenza Almudévar
	Basilica of Nuestra Senora de Pilar from the Puente de Piedra stone bridge
	Zaragoza looking down the Río Ebro
	Late afternoon walk on a hot afternoon

Day 18: Venta de Santa Lucia to Piña de Ebro to Zaragosa

Date	Jun 9th ( Friday )
Today's Distance:	12 miles / 19 km
Venta de Santa Lucia to Piña de Ebro Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	195 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	195 miles
Total All Caminos:	1918 miles
Lodging:	$ 45 @ apartment in Zaragosa
Total Lodging:	$ 813
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 25  Bujaralos to Venta de Santa Lucia $ 70 Piña de Ebro to Zaragosa
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 247 = 262
Food:	$
Total Food:	$ 355

Meaningful Moment

What can I say? 

First completing the Camino Barcelona to Montserrat.

Then completing the Camino Catalan from Montserrat to Piña de Ebro. 

The two combined for 193 miles over 15 days of hiking. That an average 13 miles per day.

And although we had some shorter days, we never took a rest day.

Random Thought of the Day

Two different guides give different end points for the Camino Catalan: Piña de Ebro or Burgos de Ebro.

So in order to have time to see Zaragosa, and move on to the Camino Finisterre/Muxia, we are ending the Catalan today.

On the Road / Notable memories

The sun was out again today. Although we started walking at 7:30, by 9:00 a.m. with the sun on our backs, we were hot and sweaty. I suppose it's a fitting way to remember my last day of walking in the desert.

Not a long day in the sun - just under 6 hours, but the sun was pretty constant the entire hike. Just a reminder of how hot it gets or how hot it can feel, even when the temperature is only in the high 70s.

The day was spectacularly unmemorable as we spent our last day in the Los Monegros desert. I'm still amazed that so much land ... so much rocky arid land is farmed, but that is miracle of irrigation.

Deb and I rolled into Pina de Ebro around 1:00 p.m. We found the church which was open, but unfortunately did not have a stamp for pilgrims. 

Not a big deal because I can get a final Camino Catalan stamp at the bar where we're having lunch. But the church would have been nicer. ... Lol, forgot to get the stamp at the bar.

Sat down at a bar right near the main plaza and had the Menu del Día. So we've had a good lunch and when we get to Zaragoza, we can chill out and then maybe do something later tonight.

Arrived in Zaragosa.

More on Zaragosa tomorrow. We walked around a bit. From the outside, we saw the Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Pilar and the central public market.

My very first impressions are how lively and energetic this city is. After many days in small towns of hundreds or a few thousand people, the streets of Zaragosa are so alive with activity.

The fashion sense of the Europeans is just amazing. Sad to say, that Deb and I in our baggy hiking pants and loose fitting shirts don't match up with the local ethos. :-)

The narrow European streets, the wide pedestrian boulevards, the architecture mix of a few hundred years back to many hundreds of years back is all so overwhelming.

I'm going to enjoy our rest day here.

	Our last day in the Los Monegros desert
	The one constant architectural feature was the number of abandoned houses.
	It was really small inside. But then, I imagine, living in town now must be so much better.
	Another abandoned structure, but it made an outstanding rest stop for something to eat, while allowing us to get out of the sun for a while.
	There were so few trees that any chance to stand under one for a couple of minutes was worth a break.
	Piña de Ebro from a distance
	I counted nine cranes on the tower.
	Iglesia de Santa Maria
	195 mi from Barcelona. All on foot. Lol, except for 6 miles in a thunderstorm.

Day 17: Bujaraloz to Venta de Santa Lucia

Day 17: Second to Last day on the Camino Catalan

Date	Jun 8th ( Thursday )
Today's Distance:	13 miles /  20 km
Burajaloz to Venta de Santa Lucia Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	183 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	183 miles
Total All Caminos:	1918 miles
Lodging:	$ 50 @ Hostel Monegros III
Total Lodging:	$ 873
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 25 Venta de Santa Lucia to Bujaralos
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 117 = 132
Food:	$
Total Food:	$ 355

Meaningful Moment

Hiking the Los Monegros desert.

The area is prone to chronic droughts, and much of the area is a natural region made up of badlands.

Deb and I spent 5 days hiking through the area.

Random Thoughts of the Day

Recommendations on thru-hiking Los Monegros

• Break up the Fraga to Bujaraloz stage. Use a taxi from Candaznos back to Fraga and the next morning to return to Candaznos.
• Break up the stage from Burajaloz to Pina de Ebro into two stages. Use a taxi from Venta de Santa Lucia back to Burajaloz and the next morning to return to Venta de Santa Lucia.
• Carry lots of hydration. 
• Use sun block. There is almost no shade cover.
• Use Google maps to zoom into towns to find lodging, e.g. Los Monegros III is not on booking.com but had rooms while the lodgings listed on booking.com were full.
• Fraga had an albergue but it is not listed anywhere that I could find. Call the town governments the night before.
• Some knowledge of Spanish will make everything easier.

On the Road / Notable memories

Beautiful day for hiking again. Mostly cloud covered to keep the temperatures down. Light sprinkle at the end. Hard to believe tomorrow is the last day on the Camino Catalan.

The entire day was along the national N-II highway

Starting the day, having a coffee, in the hostel bar with the server lady. 

She is Venezuelan and has lived here 15 years now. She made her way to Bujaraloz after Madrid, Barcelona and Zaragosa. 

She is raising her sons here with her husband. We talked about leaving the homeland, seeing the world and the experiences of new vistas.

***

Los Monegros desert region: Ermita de San Jorge

	The Los Monegros desert.
	Through intense irrigation, there is a lot of farmland.
	Ermita de San Jorge
	The symbols with a lot of information

Day 16: Candaznos to Bujaralos 

Date	Jun 7th ( Wednesday )
Today's Distance:	15 miles / 24  km
Candaznos to Burajalos Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	170 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	170 miles
Total All Caminos:	1905 miles
Lodging:	$ 50 @ Hostel Monegros III
Total Lodging:	$ 823
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 30 Fraga to Candaznos
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 92 = 107
Food:	$ 25
Total Food:	$ 355

Meaningful Moment

Deb and I have 3 miles to Bujaralos. We're sitting on benches behind an abandoned house surrounded by trees and fields of growing corn with a cool breeze blowing under cloudy skies. Stopped to have something to eat and drink. Just a perfect moment for relaxing before we end today's stage.

Random Thought of the Day

When we get to the hostel tonight, we need to consider our plans for the last 2 days of this portion of the Camino. 

The next stage is just under 24 miles long with no lodging. So that means once we start, if we don't have a fallback plan, we are totally committed to walking the distance.

We'll be talking tonight with the people at the hostel to see if we can arrange for a taxi pickup at the halfway point tomorrow. 

If we can do that, then we can stay at the hostel a second night, using a taxi to get back tomorrow and then returning us to the halfway point the following morning.

If we achieve that, we will have walked the Camino Catalan from Barcelona to the endpoint. Not sure how much mileage that is going to be yet.

***

The manager of the hostel gave me a phone number of a taxi driver. I gave him a call, and he said that he could pick us up tomorrow at our halfway point, and then return us there Friday morning.

The significance of this means that Deb and I can completely walk the Camino Catalan from Barcelona.

On the Road / Notable memories

Weather has been phenomenal today. Total cloud cover with temperatures in the high-60s to low 70s. Much better hiking.

There is a deviation between the AllTrails app and the yellow arrow markers from the Camino Association so Deb and I spent about an extra 3/4 of a mile walking down the wrong road and then backtracking. No big deal.

The bar in Peñable did not have much in it, but Deb and I got our coffees and we broke out something from our lunch pack to eat before completing the second half of today's stage.

Also had a couple of nice places on big, flat rocks to stop for a few minutes and rest, take the socks off and let the feet breathe.

Los Monegros desert region

	Not exactly bush wacking
	The Osbourne bull started as a brandy advert campaign, but they are now all over most but not all of Spain.
	The cats of Peñalbe
	Peñalbe main plaza. Coffee break.
	Peñalbe
	Bujaralos main square. Deb and I are sitting and enjoying an evening breeze.
	All you can eat Spanish 24 hour trucks driver restaurant

Day 15: Fraga to Candaznos

Date	Jun 6th ( Tuesday )
Today's Distance:	17 miles / 27 km
Fraga to Candaznos Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	155 miles
Total 2023 Caminos:	155 miles
Total All Caminos:	1890 miles
Lodging:	$  60 @ Hotel Casanova
Total Lodging:	$ 773
Planes:	$ 1350
Total Planes:	$ 1350
Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 30 Candaznos to Fraga
Total Buses / Trains / Taxis:	$ 0 / 30 / 62 = 92
Food:	$ 20
Total Food:	$ 330

Meaningful Moment

A beautiful morning in Spain with a 1000 ft climb out of the Río Cinca valley with Deb.

Random Thought of the Day

I suspect the now abandoned farm houses lying in the middle of working fields is just because it's so convenient to live in town nowadays.

On the Road / Notable memories

6:00 a.m. Wake up.

6:30 a.m. Early start

Temperature outside 61°. Weather forecast for the day: lots and lots and lots of sun with the temperature climbing to 85 by around 1:00 p.m. Rains predicted starting around 4:00 p.m.

*** 

Two stops at repsol gas stations for rest breaks. There were no support services along the entirety of today's hike.

 Lunch under a tree, enjoying the shade.

The climb out of the River valley was about 4 mi. The remaining 13 miles were through arid farm fields. 

The fields were incredibly rocky, such that it was hard to imagine crops growing there. But they were working fields.

Irrigation is completely and absolutely essential to making farming a success in this area. 

Saw some fields that did not appear to have irrigation, and I can't imagine what could be grown there. The land is not dirt but more like sand and rocks and clay.

The Río Cinca has carved out an immense valley, not unlike the Colorado River and the Grand canyon. 

Not comparing scales because the Río Cinca is much smaller, but just trying to get the idea across that as we climbed out of the valley, we reached an immense plains system.

	Beginning our ascent out of the Río Cinca valley
	Going up
	Out of the valley and back onto the plains
	Typical of the path all the way up
	Arid farm land with abandoned house.  The land is tended so it must be in between planting and harvesting.
	Rocky farms fields. What could possibly grow here?
	One of our gas station rest stops today.
	Church in Candaznos. We are waiting our taxi.